


If it all works apart from the sections that require registration, then you'll have a "full test set" for about 75 quid.T: 409 version lead works fine with the latest 1.2 software.Īnyway, for a fiver or so, what do you have to lose?
FIX CLONE VCDS 12.12 INSTALL
Ross-Tech acknowledge that a PC/Laptop can/will fail.so they allow you to install the software to another PC and then email them for a new code for that PC. You are allowed, at ANY time, to make ONE change of registration. "The lite paid version uses per machine activation limiting it to one installation version." Your problem is the classic second set of contacts (for the ecu) not working. I bought this cable as a gamble, but it works fine, even with version 1.2 of say you checked the brake switch, but did you go through the setup procedure after you re-installed it? I had another lead that cost £27.7 years ago, but the cable was clear and very stiff. I'm using the one above, with my registered (from 6 years ago) software. You're only allowed to have ONE change of laptop.but now I have it installed on an ancient XP lappy that lives in the van, and also an installation on a Win 10 laptop that "stays clean".
FIX CLONE VCDS 12.12 FULL
They then email you back a code which you type in and get full functionality.
FIX CLONE VCDS 12.12 REGISTRATION
You install the "freeware", and then email them the registration number. The VCDS software is actually FREE from Ross-Tech, but the only way to get "full" functionality is to register it with sts about £70, but then you can do things like timing and turning off airbag lights. Will this help me to identify what`s going on?ĭon't be fooled.this is NOT "Full VCDS"! I was thinking about getting some sort of vagcom/vcds but I have not got a clue about what I am looking for but seen these on the bay. I have also removed my brake light switch and checked it internally, quite clean in there with no signs of corrosion pitting on the contacts. Yesterday I removed my EGR and cleaned it out. Today it done it though as I was cruising at about 30mph. It does this roughly once a day now and I have been getting around it by turning the ignition off and back on and this sorts it. I was waiting to turn into a junction the other day and when I turned in it was as if the accelerator was not working, it just crawled along and when I looked at the dash the glowplug warning light was flashing. My van has been running sweet for months but has now developed a fault, keeps dropping into some form of limp mode.
